Food Critic without a face - Alex Beazley

...and What a Vue it is!

There is something quintessentially ‘James Bond cool’ about the whole Vue de Monde experience.

From zooming in an elevator to the umpteenth floor, to the well suited wait staff who glide around with impossible charisma and then the sudden urge to proclaim “yes, my martini will be shaken, god damn it”!

Vue de Monde probably wins the award for the most expensive restaurant I have ever been to in Australia, and I’d do it all again in a heartbeat. Indeed Vue de Monde probably wins several ‘most expensive awards’ e.g. most expensive views in Melbourne (and they are breathtaking), most expensive cutlery (rumoured to be over $600 apiece), most expensive decorative table pebbles, most expensive bathrooms, most expensive cellar, most expensive kettle chips/dipping puree and the list goes on...

Located on the 55^th floor of the Rialto South Tower, Vue de Monde is a ‘special occasion’ type of place. So when the waiter asked if there was an occasion for the evenings meal, the Blonde’s response of “I woke up today... you know how it is”, probably wasn’t what he was fishing for. Dressed in our best refinery, the Blonde, the Business Partner and the Queenslander (who actually donned a tie for the occasion) all agreed that dinner plans at Vue de Monde was a special occasion. We were fortunate enough to literally have a window table (at sunset too), but the floor space is so thoughtful, that even ‘back’ tables would find it hard not to feel as though they had the best seats in the house. It’s rarity for a restaurant in Australia to be in the position, where they can focus on the small details like these.

                                                                                                                                                                      

Moving away from my usual drink of choice, the Negroni, I was tempted by the waiter’s suggestion of Champagne. Not just any champagne, but one of my favourite ‘grower champagnes’ Larmandier-Bernier. These types of Champagne differ from so-called ‘Grand Marques’ e.g. Bollinger, Ruinart etc because they are typically more terroir or cru focussed, a more recent but exciting phenomenon in Champagne (just for your information!). Naturally, we chose the degustation menu with matched wines, and it didn’t disappoint. Amuse kicked off almost immediately, including Salt Cured Wallaby, Smoked Eel, Kettles with Macadamia, Natural Oysters, and a most pleasantly unusual dish of Peas, Pistachio and Strawberries which required you to literally crack into it. Very fun indeed; it certainly kept the Blonde and the Business Partner busy and brimming! 

A dish of Roasted Marron and Tarragon Butter really got my juices going, but it was the Melbourne Onion Soup dish’s combination of flavour, theatricality and sublime wine pairing (2009 Domaine Huet ‘Clos de Bourg’ Vouvray) which hit the highest note. Duck Yolk, Broad Beans and Mint was also fondly received by the table as was a dish of Lamb, Anchovies and Mustard, all of which played a gentle symphony of well balanced, but pronounced flavours. 

To be honest, desserts were our least favourite although still very much exceptional. A chocolate soufflé with crème analgise might sound a little generic, but this was a ‘proper’ soufflé. Fluffy, rich and well risen, it made for a delicious albeit slightly heavy final course. A plate of petit-fours to finish showed real imagination and despite being completely and utterly full, I obliged for research purposes. Tough gig.

Above all, despite the sometimes ‘show off-y’ presentation of the food, the produce and their flavours remained the focus. The obscure foams, drops, puree swirls and seemingly random smacking of petite herbs was kept to a minimum and if used, deliberately and thoughtfully done so. Again, the produce was clearly first rate and amalgamated to create well conceived dishes with a strong sense of Australian provenance. 

Vue de Monde is a fantastic example of what ‘Mod-Aus’ dinning actually is. At around $500 per head the bill was by no means cheap, but I can’t think of many places I’d rather spend that sort of money. The breakfast bag on departure was a nice touch too and as the Blonde folded the Business Partner and myself into a cab home, even she exclaimed that "It was the best dinner we've done yet". 

Need to Know

Bookings are essential. I mean, very essential. Did I say Essential? 

Dress for the nines or the ten's if you can. 

http://www.vuedemonde.com.au/

Alex Beazley 

Food Critic without a Face 

Nationally recognised on paper, but never recognised by face

With a long history in food, he lives for fine consumption; join his adventures.