BraudiaGM: March 2013

Wednesday, 27 March 2013

#REUBENFANTIC FOR FASHION

LMFF2013 - FASHION INDUSTRY FORUM 2:

THE FASHION MEDIA LANDSCAPE TRANSFORMATION

Sofitel Hotel Melbourne

With any industry, there must be an element of "business" attached and accounted for to make it "viable." Not only financially viable, but incorporating factors such as marketing, promotions and advertising, thus making their event or art, "accessible" by all.

The same applies to the week long L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival held in March. Not only is it’s main focus on commercial fashion in the retail market, LMFF also hosts several key industry talks or forums fo- cussing on the “business” side of the fashion industry.

The Fashion Media Landscape Transformation deals with the incredibly changing and constantly evolving media landscape to suit the adaptive and savvy consumer of today. Renowned and recognised media pro- fessions from various newspapers, print publications and online media will be set on stage to debate the emerging marking, publicity and promotional opportunities that result from the recent media revolution and evolution.

The guest panelists included Damien Woolnough, Fashion Editor of The Australian newspaper; Rae Be- gley, Founder and Director of Little Hero; Kim Wilson, Executive Fashion Editor of the Herald Sun; Melissa Hoyer, Fashion and Media Commentator; Janice Breen-Burns, Fashion Journalist and Author; with Glynis Traill-Nash, Fashion Writer and Commentator wearing the Facilitator and Host cap.

DAMIEN WOOLNOUGH opened the proceedings with a decry that “newspapers are no longer the mono- lithic link.” Newspapers, traditionally have been the forefront of news, information, images and editorials. Before the advent of the internet and its resultant offspring - social media; fashion was depicted in editorial write ups and dull images printed in the lifestyle section of any newspaper. Now, Woolnough says, “news- papers are changing but will they continue to exist in this changing landscape?” Interestingly, Woolnough will be leaving his post as Fashion Editor of The Australian, Australia’s largest nationally circulated newspa- per, to become the Fashion Editor of the relaunch of Elle Australia magazine. Proclaiming that “magazines are the way,” he theorised that print is still a priority and is first in leading and influencing fashion news.

JANICE BREEN-BURNS added that “fashion was POLICY in newspapers.” She noted that 5-6 years ago, journalists became increasingly nervous of protecting the integrity of the newspaper masthead they’d worked for. Then came the explosion of “celebrity controversy” in regards to fashion - which “middle age men” in that era thought fashion was all about. Thus, they promoted fashion to all the “silly girls and house- wives,” with that in mind.

Nowadays, these old “monoliths” of fashion information and influence had to adapt. And adapt quickly. Fash- ion articles have done a full revolution, being written to be reflective, in-depth and with comprehensive cov- erage of fashion from all forms.

How has this evolution prompted the change in one of the fashion “bibles” of the industry, VOGUE Maga- zine? EDWINA MCCAIN, Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Australia commented that the main challenge facing the magazine is trying “to keep it up with it all.” One of the frustrations McCain continually face have been com- plaints from their subscribers and non-subscribers of the streamlining of the magazine’s print content in line with their online content. This cannot happen as “online content is different to digital editions (enhanced ver- sions of the print edition).” McCain diligently explains that Vogue.com.au has “evergreen” content, which is continually published and updated online, in consultation with VOGUE UK and US. It is also highly con- nected with social media tools such as Facebook and Twitter “click throughs.”

An example of this has been the successful launch of Miss Vogue - an online only “edition” aimed at younger audiences with edgier content and a focus on promoting Australian designers. So shall we write the obituary for fashion “media?”

“Media is NOT dead!” exclaimed MELISSA HOYER. Currently working as the Entertainment Editor for news.com.au, she has worked in print, online, television and radio, making her a verbose and formidable contributor in this forum. Hoyer rightly points out that there are now plenty of platforms currently used to engage with the audience. With the audience’s insatiable appetite for fashion, news is now “short and sharp,” with a tweet becoming a news “story.” She looks at change positively, and with everyone embracing new media, the days of “print vs. digital” fighting for media “space” are long gone.

But how do fashion companies embrace the use of both print and digital when it comes to promoting their products and services, whilst building their image and branding? RAE BEGLEY suggested a solution - “content creation.” By utilising social media, PR companies can demonstrate their power for brands. Such content creation like webisodes and events can communicate a brand’s story, providing a medium for people to further interact and engage with their favourite brands. There must be a balance campaign, with print AND online media employed. Begley stressed that content must be ready for all media platforms, which is a chal- lenge with the evolving technology involved. Is the “success” of an online campaign derived from the number of “clicks” or “likes” or “shares” or “sales?” There is no magical measuring tool devised, despite all the tal- ented brains of computer data analysis or coding at our fingers.

KIM WILSON is addicted to information derived from social media. The only fashion editor of any Australian newspaper, Wilson epitomises the challenges of embracing print media in conjunction with digital social media. Being an active user of all social media platforms in promoting her work with the Herald Sun, she lamented that newspapers still need a “hook” when it comes to publishing an editorial article, commentary, opinion or event. That “hook” is the “story.” What is the story? Who is the story? While pictures are a mas- sive part of the newspaper, something substantial is still required to generate a story that can add value to the reader. An example would be an element of video. Wilson shared a tidbit with the forum audience - that a 3 minute video equates to an 8 hour job for the videographer. So if people can generate and provide that video element, it becomes a huge incentive, but stressed that it still must be reflective of the brand and their story.

This next stage in “new media” has almost superseded last season’s darlings, the fashion “bloggers.” Breen-Burns lamented that social media had completely change the workload, and that all these new plat- forms have not solved of the print platform, the long form of fashion editorials and cover stories. She bla- tantly addresses the forum crowd, predominantly filled with these supposed bloggers that these “bedroom bloggers aren’t engaging with the audience.” Instead they have their “niche markets and readers,” and there aren’t many online blogs that dedicate journalistic writings in the “long form” to cover fashion. She and the rest of the panelists all agree that bloggers must employ journalistic skills and quality into their online con- tent.

And despite the decries of “print is dead!,” all the panelists concluded that magazines still do a great job at keeping their audience interested - engaging with them and provide them a sense of escapism.

As McCain pointedly summed up, “fashion is ALL about dreaming. Couture IS the dreaming - fashion for art sake.” Whether that be a gloriously excessive editorial photo shoot in a ten-page spread in VOGUE maga- zine, or that fantastical, whimsical coverage of the inaugural Red Carpet Runway show presented by Harper’s BAZAAR Brides at this year’s L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival posted by a little known “bed- room blogger,” only time will tell.

ALL IMAGES USED WITH PERMISSION FROM LUCAS DAWSON FOR AMPR www.lucasdawson.com.au

Reuben Cheok - Stylist - is an internationally recognised stylist and TV personality. He is covering L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival as part of BraudiaGM Pty Ltd.

To Contact:

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/ReubenCheokStylist

Email: contact@reubencheok.com

Twitter: @reubania

Instagram: @reubania

Thursday, 21 March 2013

Melbourne Private Runway show

Pressure stockings the new look for Winter 2013

Bryn waltzes in as I’m lying in my hospital bed (half coherent due to the morphine) and looks at the cupboards in my private room. “Oooh honey! You’ve got a mini-bar! I hope it’s fully stocked! I’m parched!”. Bryn doesn’t really ‘do’ hospitals and trying to explain to him that they aren’t the sick persons version of a hotel became a bit of a feat. At one point I had to stop him mid sentence asking my adorable nurse for a Gin and Tonic.

This week has been profoundly crap. Apart from being in hospital and the extras that come with that old chestnut, I have missed mostly, the entirety of the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival. Bryn (My fashion life- partner) and our photographers and Fashion bloggers have been keeping me up to date. Streaming photos, editorial reviews and such my way (working me while I’m sick you see, like some kind of fashion slave).

As sad as I am to be removed for once, I’m sitting on the other side of the fence. Not the cheeky side of the fence, but the side that separates me from the industry. I am watching the festival like a kid shaking a snow globe.

Now I know how readers feel (not the hospital part) when reading runway updates, following the instragram postings and waiting with baited breath to catch a glimpse of what’s next in the fashion world.

On top of this, Bryn has had to step up to the podium and learn how to write blog posts. Soon he’ll be opening his own centre for “kids who can’t read good”. Although I must sing his praise, my first night in “the slammer” Bryn did present me with a bundle of goods that consisted of British Vogue, Marie Claire, Hello Magazine and GQ. I’ve also been kept well entertained by the nurses, who have had an amazing sense of humour and stash of meds!

So, don’t think Claude’s out of the game entirely…

I will be making an appearance on Sunday. Stay tunned for Claude’s new look!

Plastic surgery you’re wondering?

I guess you’ll find out when you see me next!

David Jones Autumn Launch

“Ready or not!”

"Release the hounds…tooth!"

Bryn Thomas - Business Director and Men's Fashion Enthusiast!

"I could only love these clothes more if they were on me!"

For those in the fashion industry, one soon becomes familiar with the workings of a fashion event; the late starts, the free champagne (I have to admit this often entices me a lot quicker into the door), the schmoozing with the right people and the colossal amount of air kisses (seriously if Melbourne thought it was in the midst of a gastro outbreak, wait until tomorrow!), and naturally of course, those free little gift bags full of goodies, that even the most modest ‘fashionista’ will feel no guilt over, after cat fighting with someone over the last ones, or steamrolling through some poor innocent Nona to get their hands on one (Trust me, I have actually seen this happen!).

This evening was naturally no different, except of course the clothing was new, and I had to forego my fashion life-partner Claudia. Unfortunately, due to tight schedules, the gastro outbreak previously mentioned etc, I was to face this event on my own. So I must apologise now my dear reader, I admit being male will somewhat limit my ‘fashion vocabulary’. However, I do take pride in being able to dress myself properly, and although I do know the difference between herringbone and hound’s-tooth, I will try and refrain from describing garments like “The dress was pink and pretty.” from hereon in.

David Jones is celebrating its 175^th year, and as such showcased around thirty designers from its portfolio on the opening night. I am told this event sold out, so those unable to get tickets, don’t panic! Ladies put down that Eversharp Schick, I urge you not to get too distraught. Obviously being a Department store, the clothing was highly commercial and I’m sure you can have a looksee at the garments in your nearest store.

“So the damn clothes!?” I’m sure your cogitating about now. Having such an array of designers (both male and female garments as well) allowed for a very eclectic combination of clothing. There were however, some apparent traditional Autumn trends exhibited. This included soft natural tones mixed with traditional Autumn oranges and browns. Which in my opinion is a rather safe option for designers. There were however, some garments that stepped away from the habitual Autumn colours, with some designers exhibiting fresh, bright prints, pop colours and ‘chic’ black and gold evening wear. There was also the ever-present bold leopard print, which never seems to stray far from the runway, and is only caught by the hungry hands of consumers willing to stand out in a crowd (My business partner Claude will rejoice that she can get her “raw” on for yet another season!).

Jack London kicked off the men’s wear with an eye opening red tartan cardigan. Unfortunately, this was the end of bold statements for men. This was quickly followed by less perceptible cardigans for the more conservative male. Followed by tailored jackets in navy and khaki colours. Garments were also mixed with softer tartan trousers.

Lee Mathews shortly followed with knits in natural tones, followed by Zanerobepresenting comfortable shoal neck knits. Brent Wilson’s garments exuberated ‘swanky farmer meets casual professional’ with check shirts accessorised with bow ties and trilby hats.

Naturally, women’s wear was a lot more eye catching. Good news 80s obsessed fans! It appears the vintage 80s bomber jacket is back in (again!). This was revealed in collections by Lisa Ho and Romance was Born. A special mention must also go to Alice McCall’s Peacock print collection, which was everything but dull.

I feel I must also mention Easton Pearson’s pieces, which somehow managed to blend ‘tribal colours with a sassy sailor’ look, and Ginger & Smart’s ‘Tetras pop print’ dress was different, but somewhat puzzling…

My favourite? My preferred designer for the evening was Mary Katrantzou. For me, the outfits really stood out from the other designers, and no wonder though, I soon found out she was an international guest designer. Her garments employed fresh prints on white outfits, with ‘poncho’ style shoulders. Think Aztec prints mixed with a ‘par avion’ feel, and my immediate feeling was ‘holiday’. And who doesn’t like a holiday? The ‘coathanger’ print dress also appeared to be hit with the ‘tweens’ in front me too.

So my fashion friends, there’s a quick wrap of the opening show of L’Oreal Melbourne fashion week, from a somewhat male perspective. The show honestly consisted of something that would suit all tastes, from the flamingly flamboyant, to the more modest type. Gentlemen, as always our options are a little limited, but sharp nonetheless. If anyone is on the lookout for a new Autumn/Winter wardrobe (and let’s face it, who isn’t?), then there is no other store like…well you know the rest!