Reviewer - Food Critic without a face Alex Beazley
Delivering
on its Concept
A Blonde, a Pilot and a Queenslander walked into a bar. The
Pilot grumbled, the Blonde re-powdered, and the Queenslander looked around in
awe. But this isn’t the start of a bad joke, this isn’t just any bar. Here, the
smell of dry aged beef lingers, the wine pours more than it rains outside, and
the dining room oozes with an impossibly relaxed yet classy atmosphere. This
place could only be Neil Perry’s acclaimed Rockpool Bar and Grill Melbourne.
At
a Glance
Rockpool Bar
and Grill Melbourne is located in the colossal Crown Complex and is far more
than an upmarket steakhouse. Rockpool Bar and Grill boasts an impressive menu
which is heavily driven by quality Australian produce. The restaurant also provides
its diners with possibly the most extensive wine list in the country. Even a
non-wino can surely see the amount of effort that goes into a wine list like
this, if not by the sheer weight of the bloody thing! The diversity of varietal,
expression, region and vintage must be applauded. The staff are unobtrusively attentive
and knowledgeable, I recommend conversing with them about both the menu and the
wine list.
Meanwhile, a steady stream of beer and cocktails had already
begun whilst we waited for our Final Guest to arrive. As we loosened up a
little, the Blonde begins to make some off the cuff comments about the apparent
lack of dress sense amongst some fellow dinners; indeed wearing the hotel curtains
will surely be the next big thing! The influence of being located in the Crown
Complex I’m sure. Needless to say our Final Guest arrives in her
finest summer wear and we are promptly seated.
The menu certainly trends toward the
grill, but what consistently stood out was the produce. A crudo of kingfish and
ocean trout entre was so simple, yet so delightfully fresh (insert). Likewise a main of pigeon,
entwined in radicchio and cherries was also wonderful, albeit slightly
lacklustre. The Blonde and the Pilot were similarly impressed with their meals from
the grill. Desserts are a modern twist on more classical fare, including an
amazing chocolate tart. Unfortunately our Final Guest was in dismay by this
stage, remaining transfixed on the prices of the wine and food we had ordered
(it was just not the same value as Nando’s apparently). By the time tea and
coffee rolled around, the Blonde and the Queenslander were in hysterics
(perhaps inappropriately so), the Pilot was well grounded, and our Final Guest was
joined by a fellow Nando’s enthusiast - good for them.
The point is, you get from Rockpool Bar and Grill what you
put in. Counting your pennies here is not advisable because it’s not cheap by
any measure. This is the sort of restaurant you go to have fun at, regardless
of the price. Order a bottle of wine (or two, or three) that you have never
heard of before, or just give the sommelier your price range – and for heaven’s
sake someone order the rib-eye wagyu ($115)!
Last Words? Rockpool Bar and Grill delivers on its
concept of providing a simple, uncomplicated menu sourcing excellent produce.
An exceptional wine list, great service and luxurious dining space are equally
welcome attributes for this outstanding venue.
Need to Know:
Opening hours:
Lunch Sunday to Friday; Dinner 7 Days
Reservations
(recommended) +61 3 8648 1900
Crown Complex
Southbank VIC 3006 Australia
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